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Top Beams + Waterproof Or Not?M J Epko duckchow at ix.netcom.comSun Oct 6 22:49:54 CDT 1996
At 07:05 AM 10/3/96 -0400, Pat Newberry, whose updates to the SB list on his progress I appreciate even though I get sorta jealous reading them, wrote: >The bond beam, I heard one person mentioning a cement bond beam. >regardless of cement or wood....is this the same thing as a top plate in >straw bale???? Did I miss this? (Probably. Maybe I even said it myself. Been working on an update for the SB links site & it's eating up all of what tiny bit of spare time and functioning brain cells I have... I'm taking a break before I get too much more exasperated.) It's a good question, one I hadn't considered. Maybe it's in Shannon's long post from last week. Maybe I should go read that right now. * Okay, I did, and it's not. (I've also been delinquent in ordering the booklet from Cob Cottage, so maybe my answer is in there. But I've got you all here now - so...) What about attaching the roof? Here in deep-snow country, a fair pitch is generally desirable; we need to attach the rafters somehow. Would a wood beam (perhaps nothing more than 2-by dimension lumber, say 2x10 or 2x12?) be attached to the top of the wall using the porcupine method? That would seem insufficient to withstand uplift, especially if generous overhangs are part of the plan. Perhaps foundation-type anchor bolts are built into the top layers of the wall & the beam/plate is simply bolted on? Same concern for concrete. And what, besides being easier to level than cob, would be the advantage of a concrete running bond beam? Couldn't a person use an easier-to-handle-than-concrete wood beam and just stuff cob under it into any unlevel parts once it's bolted down? Am I missing something obvious again? How about using peeled poles viga-style (protecting the exposed ends from the copious precipitation with the pitched roof), which would be incorporated *into* the wall & to which a wood top beam (perhaps flattened logs) could be bolted. Since wood's R-value is roughly comparable to cob, it wouldn't be much of a thermal break. Perhaps horizontal holes could be bored through these vigas where they cross the center of the wall and rebar could be threaded through for additional uplift resistance. Oh, I'm just swimmin' with unusual and unneccesary ideas. >I have heard that straw is NOT a necessary ingredients. Any comments???? Personally, I'd guess that it's not *vital*, but I'd also guess that it does add significantly to the monolithic strength of the wall. Like those fiberglass-strand additives for concrete... they're just weenie little things, much littler and certainly no stronger than any self-respecting shaft of straw, but they DO increase the strength of the concrete substantially. * Our building plans are changing. I'd grossly and embarrassingly underestimated the passive solar potential of our building site (s'what happens when yer site's 6 hours away & ya've never been able to just *sit* on it for even a day) - so we're going for mongo exterior insulation. Here's what we're thinking, and I welcome all comments and suggestions: phase one will be a somewhat spiral-like (like a top view of a snail shell) cob structure on a shallow (non-frost-protected) rubble trench, about 12' inner-diameter minimum at the small part. This will be the bigass bathroom (our current one has 3-1/2'x4' of open floor space not occupied by permanent fixtures, and we're fed up with that), and will vent directly outside through the roof. It will be fully enclosed by a circular or octangular strawbale structure 10 to 12 feet larger all around than the cob part. The cob wall will be the bearing system for the interior of the radial joists. The chimney for the wood-heat system will also be incorporated into this wall, and it will provide more-than-adequate thermal mass fully-protected from exterior temperature swings. The question: should the bathroom side of the cob wall be waterproofed, or do we suspect that the direct ventilation will suffice? The source of my wedded bliss wants a sauna in there - this changes the picture some, eh? The other question: will this work? Will it be far more difficult than I'm anticipating? M J Epko duckchow at ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~duckchow/
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