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The Work of Art and The Art of Work
Kiko Denzer on Art



[Cob] Lime

Marlin lightearth at onebox.com
Wed Jan 12 14:17:16 CST 2005


double the suggestion of using a brown scratch coat. I've never seen dung used but have used a fine straw/hair/clay/sand mix to stick to and coat a cob wall to get it ready for the lime/sand coat and it's working great....see  www.outtathebox.org, click on photo album.....also can sculpt your wall as you go, leaving plenty of holes for the plaster.

Hydrated Lime works very well, not sure why anyone needs to use QuickLime but maybe I missed that part. Also we used Iron Oxides (Red/Yellow) and Ochres to make a color for the final lime coat and lime wash (applied after the final coat for extra color)

-----Original Message-----
From:     Raduazo at aol.com
Sent:     Wed, 12 Jan 2005 15:05:45 EST
To:       dognyard at stockroom.ca;coblist at deatech.com
Subject:  Re: [Cob] Lime

In a message dated 1/12/2005 11:08:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
dognyard at stockroom.ca writes:
It was Hydrated Lime.
That is good. Hydrated lime does not react when added to water, it does not 
need to be soaked 4 months or 4 years to form a really fine putty. It is a 
little more expensive than quick lime, but if you do thing right you will not need 
much. I coated a 12 by 9 foot wall with less than $6.00 worth of hydrated 
lime (one bag) and I had lime left over. The trick is to do a clay/manure base 
coat to fill in all the big irregularities in the wall, and then use a very thin 
coat. I used white sand with mine and 2 sand 1 part lime and it was very 
white and very opaque. I then followed this with two coats of lime paint.
    The horse manure brown coat is only a memory. Pictures available upon 
request.
Ed
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