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[Cob] Janet-windows, doors, thick wallsHenry Raduazo raduazo at cox.net
Mon Dec 22 06:08:44 PST 2008
Again regarding 5 foot thick earth walls earth sheltered building design is well known and there are several good books that explain how it works. Basically you try to put portions of your house below ground and the above ground portion is covered with an earthen berm at least 6 foot thick. The actual wall is usually constructed from cinder block or cast concrete, but I think rammed tires have also been used. Earth bags might work as the interior wall as well, but I know of no place where it has been tried. You would need to make the wall convex for more strength and be very careful placing the earthen berm so that the pressure of the earth does not cave in your wall. Insulation, if any, is provided on the interior wall. The earth used for the berm covering the outside of the wall can be sand or clay or garden soil you do not care. You use whatever soil you have available. There are even a few videos on the internet. I think you can find them by searching "earthship", but I am not a big fan of ramming dirt into old tires. I currently have in my book collection: Earth Sheltered Housing: Code, Zoning and Financing Issues by the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development, The Complete Book of Underground Houses by Rob Roy, and How to build an Underground House by Malcolm Wells. I also had one of the earth ship books but I may have loaned that out. These books are left over from my days as a Patent Examiner and if there is anyone one on this list who is actually considering building an earth sheltered house, I will be glad to loan them to anyone willing to pay shipping out and back. I want them back in six months. (That is plenty of time to read them and copy out anything you might need.) Ed On Dec 21, 2008, at 10:27 PM, Barbara Roemer wrote: >> Hmmm, I wonder about saving money on the permit: in California, >> buildings >> are usually permitted based on the exterior footprint. With some >> conversations with building depts., some jurisdictions will accept >> the >> interior measurement and add the thickness of a 2 x6"wall so that >> the owner >> isn't in effect penalized for a super-insulated wall. > > > Also, someone else probably already commented on this, but a 5' > thick wall > of cob will take a loooong time to heat up if the house cools for a > couple > of days during the winter. I think you'd be much better off with a > conventional strawbale or light straw clay wall and a very thick > cob like > plaster on the interior, and conventional clay plaster on the > exterior. > Then you'd have the insulation where you need it, outside the > thermal mass. > You might defeat your comfort level with so much mass at such a low > rate of > insulation. See caneloproject.com for the Steens' approach to > built-ins > with bale. > > I encourage you to use a vapor barrier between the ground and your > floor. > We didn't on our bathroom addition, and learned....it's a colder > space than > need be because ground moisture (there is excellent drainage, so > it's not > that) soaks up the heat. > > Best of luck with your project. > > Barbara > >> >> >> OKOKOK lolol >> >> "I still want to keep the walls 5 feet thick because I want the >> effect >> of building everything into the walls. >> It will also save me money on the permit." >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Coblist mailing list >> Coblist at deatech.com >> http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist >> >> >> End of Coblist Digest, Vol 6, Issue 177 >> *************************************** >> > _______________________________________________ > Coblist mailing list > Coblist at deatech.com > http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist
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