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[Cob] tiling onto mud walls

Susan Hagan su.hagan at
Wed Dec 31 02:20:07 CST 2008

Has anyone tiled straight onto mud walls? If so do you have any tips for success? 
Su Hagan in Bulgaria 
07952 986504 (UK Moblile)  00359(0)895724164 (Bulgarian Mobile)  00359 6128263 (Bulgarian Landline) 
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Please delete this e-mail and any of its attachments from your computer if you are not a named addressee.> From: coblist-request at> Subject: Coblist Digest, Vol 6, Issue 179> To: coblist at> Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 12:00:04 -0800> > Send Coblist mailing list submissions to> coblist at> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to> coblist-request at> > You can reach the person managing the list at> coblist-owner at> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific> than "Re: Contents of Coblist digest..."> > > Today's Topics:> > 1. Re: Coblist Digest, Vol 6, Issue 178 (Barbara Roemer)> 2. Re: Framing doors and windows (Damon Howell)> 3. Re: thick walls etc (Dean Sherwin)> 4. Re: Faux Leather Floor... (Edward Allen)> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------> > Message: 1> Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 13:58:32 -0800> From: "Barbara Roemer" <roemiller4 at>> Subject: Re: [Cob] Coblist Digest, Vol 6, Issue 178> To: coblist at> Message-ID:> <6e41aaf40812221358i59dd11fg2018a209b29b72e9 at>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1> >> > Shody, I like the solar attic, too. We may use the AGS system for our home> when we build, having convinced a friend in our climate to provide for it> even if she doesn't need it.> > Ed, your point about earth bermed walls being constructed (usually) of block> or concrete is well-taken. concrete has to be waterproofed/isolated or at> least damp-proofed with excellent curtain drainage, too, or it will wick> water up many stories and into the interior. Berming an earthen or cob wall> assures that moisture will migrate, but in contrast to concrete which is not> damaged by moisture but does damage by carrying moisture to other materials> which are harmed by water, cob will lose its strength as straw in it rots> with moisture. The cob must be isolated from the earth berm to keep it> dry. Building a berm right near your cob wall but not flat up against it> will allow air to circulate and keep moisture from migrating into the cob> wall, but it probably doesn't affect the temperature of the room inside the> cob wall too much as an open air channel provides neither thermal mass nor> significant insulation. Such a berm might keep you more comfortable and> reduce drafts as it reduces air pressure from wind against the side of the> house, but if that's the order of convection you're working on, you'd do> better to caulk the leaks in the wall and save yourself the work of a berm.> > I'm certainly no expert, but wonder about earth bags and moisture wicking.> I've seen earth bags used for foundations with an isolating barrier between> them and the cob or bale. The bags around here are woven, so if moisture> stood against them, the clay inside would still be able to absorb it. Maybe> on a rubble trench with no concrete cap, water would just drain away. We> used a concrete cap on the RTF for our little bale shed, and then builder's> paper (tar paper) atop that before the bales. I live in a climate with 60"> of precip in about five months, so I think about moisture - a LOT. If I> lived in an area with 11", I'd be far less concerned about it.> > Also, of foundation insulation, this source> >> > states that except for places like California and Nevada, in the US, R10 is> usually specified. We will insulate the perimeter well, and run insulation> beneath the outer foot or so of the slab, and of course a vapor barrier> under it all. Especially in cold climates, where you can create good> drainage, the perimeter insulation can be more significant than increasing> under floor insulation, and is recommended by RTF builders as well as> typical slab/perimeter builders.> > Barbara> > > ------------------------------> > Message: 2> Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 10:58:13 -0500> From: Damon Howell <dhowell at>> Subject: Re: [Cob] Framing doors and windows> To: coblist at> Message-ID: <8F59E9AA-E718-4681-9405-D89231132A26 at>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed> > Hi to Janet and Shody,> As far as insulation goes, the hand-sculpted house book says to put > your mass on the inside. That is much different than what we're used > to, but when your insulation is on the outside it keeps the outside > temp. from effecting the inside temp. The mass on the inside > provides a "thermal flywheel" which absorbs the heat when it's hot > and releases heat when it's cold in the room.> > Damon> GA> > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 3> Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 11:49:27 -0500> From: Dean Sherwin <costman at>> Subject: Re: [Cob] thick walls etc> To: coblist at> Message-ID: <0KCC00BGF9CA6RU0 at>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed> > At 03:00 PM 12/22/2008, Shody Ryon wrote:> >I think the thermal attic system is the most energy efficient> >> >system and it can be built at a very low cost. The site is> >new, so it doesn't show all the ways to use it yet. Perhaps> >you can use this info some how. The attic should have its own> >insulation envelope separate from the living space, but if you> >can not afford it, perhaps it can be planned for and built> >over time. The attic has shelves for +- 3,000 2L soda bottles> >filled with water. I suspect 3,000 might be for a smaller house.> >> >The weight of the bottles might need to be calculated but in> >most cases it falls with in the amount a house built to code> >can hold.> > Code loading for residential is usually 40 lb /SF I think but I > don't believe attics have any specified loading, if there were it > might be 25 Lb/ SF (Now we have the IRC in most parts of the country > (USA), replacing BOCA for us & I'm not up to speed.) Let's see, 1 L > of water = 1 kilogram so 3,000 is 6,000kg, thats 13,200 Lb. Only 330 > SF of floor area needed to support the load if constructed the same > as other floors, or more likely 530 SF for attic framing, not too bad indeed.> Thanks for the ref to heated attic site. Its uncannily similar to a > project a local solar guy showed me, John Constanza. He used glass > pickle jars because the client had worked in a pickle factory or > something! Of course the diagramming of sun's angles is really > oversimplified as usual but it gives the general idea. Swing seasons > are tough, I can get a lot of unwanted solar gain in the afternoon in > late August or September even with lots of shading.> > > Dean Sherwin CPE> Certified Professional Estimator> LEED Accredited Professional> CONSTRUCTION COST MANAGEMENT> 3, Cherry Street> PO Box 11> Media, PA 19063-0011> (610)892 8860> fax (610) 892 7862> costman at > > ------------------------------> > Message: 4> Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 14:57:23 -0500> From: "Edward Allen" <edward.allen69 at>> Subject: Re: [Cob] Faux Leather Floor...> To: Coblist at> Message-ID:> <ae6bebed0812231157u2ac2aba2h638e22653470cc99 at>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1> > Thanks for the responses!> > I will be using shellac over the top of the paper and I _think_ that would> take care of that issue... right?> > anyway, I will photo document my progress and let you know how it goes.> > EA> > On Mon, Dec 22, 2008 at 9:31 PM, Martha Beddoe <marthamae17 at>wrote:> > > The BioShield site seems to indicate that the surface to be hardwaxed must> > be non-absorbent. Would the bags be rendered non-absorbent in the process> > of pasting them down? I dunno - maybe you could try a sample patch> > somewhere? I'm kind-of taken with the idea and would love to know how it> > works out for you.> >> > Martha B> > nnyz4b> >> >> > --- On Fri, 12/19/08, Edward Allen <edward.allen69 at> wrote:> >> > > From: Edward Allen <edward.allen69 at>> > > Subject: [Cob] Faux Leather Floor...> > > To: Coblist at> > > Date: Friday, December 19, 2008, 7:52 PM> > > Excuse me if this is a little off topic...> > > I am interested to see what you all think about trying to> > > achieve> > > this technique> > > with natural> > > products.> > >> > > I'm thinking that I would use paste to past down the> > > paper and then shellac> > > over the top and then use hardwax (> > >> >> > )> > > on top.> > >> > > This would be a floor that would get very light usage.> > >> > > I have a subfloor that I want to cover up cheaply and> > > quickly.> > >> > > THANKS for your thoughts.> > >> > > Edward.> > > _______________________________________________> > > Coblist mailing list> > > Coblist at> > >> >> >> >> >> > > ------------------------------> > _______________________________________________> Coblist mailing list> Coblist at>> > > End of Coblist Digest, Vol 6, Issue 179> ***************************************
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