[Cob] tiling onto mud walls

[Susan Hagan]

Has anyone tiled straight onto mud walls? If so do you have any tips for success? 
 
Thanks,
 
Su Hagan in Bulgaria
www.ayurvedic-tours.co.uk 
07952 986504 (UK Moblile)  00359(0)895724164 (Bulgarian Mobile)  00359 6128263 (Bulgarian Landline) 
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Please delete this e-mail and any of its attachments from your computer if you are not a named addressee.> From: coblist-request at deatech.com> Subject: Coblist Digest, Vol 6, Issue 179> To: coblist at deatech.com> Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 12:00:04 -0800> > Send Coblist mailing list submissions to> coblist at deatech.com> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit> http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to> coblist-request at deatech.com> > You can reach the person managing the list at> coblist-owner at deatech.com> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific> than "Re: Contents of Coblist digest..."> > > Today's Topics:> > 1. Re: Coblist Digest, Vol 6, Issue 178 (Barbara Roemer)> 2. Re: Framing doors and windows (Damon Howell)> 3. Re: thick walls etc (Dean Sherwin)> 4. Re: Faux Leather Floor... (Edward Allen)> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------> > Message: 1> Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 13:58:32 -0800> From: "Barbara Roemer" <roemiller4 at gmail.com>> Subject: Re: [Cob] Coblist Digest, Vol 6, Issue 178> To: coblist at deatech.com> Message-ID:> <6e41aaf40812221358i59dd11fg2018a209b29b72e9 at mail.gmail.com>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1> > NRTradiant.com> > Shody, I like the solar attic, too. We may use the AGS system for our home> when we build, having convinced a friend in our climate to provide for it> even if she doesn't need it.> > Ed, your point about earth bermed walls being constructed (usually) of block> or concrete is well-taken. concrete has to be waterproofed/isolated or at> least damp-proofed with excellent curtain drainage, too, or it will wick> water up many stories and into the interior. Berming an earthen or cob wall> assures that moisture will migrate, but in contrast to concrete which is not> damaged by moisture but does damage by carrying moisture to other materials> which are harmed by water, cob will lose its strength as straw in it rots> with moisture. The cob must be isolated from the earth berm to keep it> dry. Building a berm right near your cob wall but not flat up against it> will allow air to circulate and keep moisture from migrating into the cob> wall, but it probably doesn't affect the temperature of the room inside the> cob wall too much as an open air channel provides neither thermal mass nor> significant insulation. Such a berm might keep you more comfortable and> reduce drafts as it reduces air pressure from wind against the side of the> house, but if that's the order of convection you're working on, you'd do> better to caulk the leaks in the wall and save yourself the work of a berm.> > I'm certainly no expert, but wonder about earth bags and moisture wicking.> I've seen earth bags used for foundations with an isolating barrier between> them and the cob or bale. The bags around here are woven, so if moisture> stood against them, the clay inside would still be able to absorb it. Maybe> on a rubble trench with no concrete cap, water would just drain away. We> used a concrete cap on the RTF for our little bale shed, and then builder's> paper (tar paper) atop that before the bales. I live in a climate with 60"> of precip in about five months, so I think about moisture - a LOT. If I> lived in an area with 11", I'd be far less concerned about it.> > Also, of foundation insulation, this source> > NRTradiant.com> > states that except for places like California and Nevada, in the US, R10 is> usually specified. We will insulate the perimeter well, and run insulation> beneath the outer foot or so of the slab, and of course a vapor barrier> under it all. Especially in cold climates, where you can create good> drainage, the perimeter insulation can be more significant than increasing> under floor insulation, and is recommended by RTF builders as well as> typical slab/perimeter builders.> > Barbara> > > ------------------------------> > Message: 2> Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 10:58:13 -0500> From: Damon Howell <dhowell at pickensprogress.com>> Subject: Re: [Cob] Framing doors and windows> To: coblist at deatech.com> Message-ID: <8F59E9AA-E718-4681-9405-D89231132A26 at pickensprogress.com>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed> > Hi to Janet and Shody,> As far as insulation goes, the hand-sculpted house book says to put > your mass on the inside. That is much different than what we're used > to, but when your insulation is on the outside it keeps the outside > temp. from effecting the inside temp. The mass on the inside > provides a "thermal flywheel" which absorbs the heat when it's hot > and releases heat when it's cold in the room.> > Damon> GA> > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 3> Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 11:49:27 -0500> From: Dean Sherwin <costman at verizon.net>> Subject: Re: [Cob] thick walls etc> To: coblist at deatech.com> Message-ID: <0KCC00BGF9CA6RU0 at vms173007.mailsrvcs.net>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed> > At 03:00 PM 12/22/2008, Shody Ryon wrote:> >I think the thermal attic system is the most energy efficient> >http://thermalattic.com/> >system and it can be built at a very low cost. The site is> >new, so it doesn't show all the ways to use it yet. Perhaps> >you can use this info some how. The attic should have its own> >insulation envelope separate from the living space, but if you> >can not afford it, perhaps it can be planned for and built> >over time. The attic has shelves for +- 3,000 2L soda bottles> >filled with water. I suspect 3,000 might be for a smaller house.> >> >The weight of the bottles might need to be calculated but in> >most cases it falls with in the amount a house built to code> >can hold.> > Code loading for residential is usually 40 lb /SF I think but I > don't believe attics have any specified loading, if there were it > might be 25 Lb/ SF (Now we have the IRC in most parts of the country > (USA), replacing BOCA for us & I'm not up to speed.) Let's see, 1 L > of water = 1 kilogram so 3,000 is 6,000kg, thats 13,200 Lb. Only 330 > SF of floor area needed to support the load if constructed the same > as other floors, or more likely 530 SF for attic framing, not too bad indeed.> Thanks for the ref to heated attic site. Its uncannily similar to a > project a local solar guy showed me, John Constanza. He used glass > pickle jars because the client had worked in a pickle factory or > something! Of course the diagramming of sun's angles is really > oversimplified as usual but it gives the general idea. Swing seasons > are tough, I can get a lot of unwanted solar gain in the afternoon in > late August or September even with lots of shading.> > > Dean Sherwin CPE> Certified Professional Estimator> LEED Accredited Professional> CONSTRUCTION COST MANAGEMENT> 3, Cherry Street> PO Box 11> Media, PA 19063-0011> (610)892 8860> fax (610) 892 7862> costman at verizon.net > > ------------------------------> > Message: 4> Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2008 14:57:23 -0500> From: "Edward Allen" <edward.allen69 at gmail.com>> Subject: Re: [Cob] Faux Leather Floor...> To: Coblist at deatech.com> Message-ID:> <ae6bebed0812231157u2ac2aba2h638e22653470cc99 at mail.gmail.com>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1> > Thanks for the responses!> > I will be using shellac over the top of the paper and I _think_ that would> take care of that issue... right?> > anyway, I will photo document my progress and let you know how it goes.> > EA> > On Mon, Dec 22, 2008 at 9:31 PM, Martha Beddoe <marthamae17 at yahoo.com>wrote:> > > The BioShield site seems to indicate that the surface to be hardwaxed must> > be non-absorbent. Would the bags be rendered non-absorbent in the process> > of pasting them down? I dunno - maybe you could try a sample patch> > somewhere? I'm kind-of taken with the idea and would love to know how it> > works out for you.> >> > Martha B> > nnyz4b> >> >> > --- On Fri, 12/19/08, Edward Allen <edward.allen69 at gmail.com> wrote:> >> > > From: Edward Allen <edward.allen69 at gmail.com>> > > Subject: [Cob] Faux Leather Floor...> > > To: Coblist at deatech.com> > > Date: Friday, December 19, 2008, 7:52 PM> > > Excuse me if this is a little off topic...> > > I am interested to see what you all think about trying to> > > achieve> > > this technique http://rubyglen.com/crafts/leatherfloor.htm> > > with natural> > > products.> > >> > > I'm thinking that I would use paste to past down the> > > paper and then shellac> > > over the top and then use hardwax (> > >> > http://www.bioshieldpaint.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=120> > )> > > on top.> > >> > > This would be a floor that would get very light usage.> > >> > > I have a subfloor that I want to cover up cheaply and> > > quickly.> > >> > > THANKS for your thoughts.> > >> > > Edward.> > > _______________________________________________> > > Coblist mailing list> > > Coblist at deatech.com> > > http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist> >> >> >> >> > > ------------------------------> > _______________________________________________> Coblist mailing list> Coblist at deatech.com> http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist> > > End of Coblist Digest, Vol 6, Issue 179> ***************************************
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