[Cob] Woodworm treatment

[Susan Hagan]

Hi everyone,

 

Does anyone have experience and knowledge about treating wood worm in old oak beams?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Su Hagan at Cob in Bulgaria

00359(0)895195318 (Bulgarian Mobile)  00359 6128263 (Bulgarian Landline) 

With Thanks. Susan Hagan.


 

> From: coblist-request at deatech.com
> Subject: Coblist Digest, Vol 8, Issue 170
> To: coblist at deatech.com
> Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:00:02 -0700
> 
> Send Coblist mailing list submissions to
> coblist at deatech.com
> 
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Coblist digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
> 1. Traditional cob (Rob Lewis)
> 2. Re: traditional building, sort of (Damon Howell)
> 3. Re: traditional building, sort of (Henry Raduazo) (Dean Sherwin)
> 4. psi testing (Janet Standeford)
> 5. PSI Testing (Janet Standeford)
> 6. Clay Plaster Workshops in Harford County Maryland (Sigi Koko)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:55:58 -0400
> From: Rob Lewis <RLewis at davmail.org>
> Subject: [Cob] Traditional cob
> To: "coblist at deatech.com" <coblist at deatech.com>
> Message-ID:
> <267B4D55A7DEA34E9937311B7C6913FF108825344F at JUNOEXCH.NTDAV.DAV.ORG>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I've been researching the traditional cob buildings in Devon and elsewhere and am curious to know if there is anyone doing traditional cob homes here in the states. I have taken a few classes on the American, free-form style but my tastes are drawn more toward those beautiful cob structures in England, such as those being built by Kevin McCabe. I'm not trying to start a culture war or anything along those lines but would be curious to know if I am going to have to fork out the cost of a plane ticket to London to study traditional cob...either way I probably will.
> 
> Rob
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:48:34 -0400
> From: Damon Howell <dhowell at pickensprogress.com>
> Subject: Re: [Cob] traditional building, sort of
> To: coblist at deatech.com
> Message-ID: <9F03C23C-F680-438D-956D-F3B2A24DDFA5 at pickensprogress.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
> 
> Ed, that phase you're talking about just has to be found by knowing 
> how long it takes to dry out. When it is dry enough to dent when you 
> smack it with a stick but not when you push it with your hand. If you 
> try to smack it down when it's too wet, it'll just stick to the stick.
> Gergo, you should soften the previous layer before you start adding 
> fresh cob, always. There's not much threat of earthquakes where I 
> live in North Georgia, so I'm not as concerned with tying the layers 
> together.
> Damon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a hard time picturing what he is doing. I too throw cob up on
> to a wall with a pitchfork, but my cob is too wet to walk on and my
> experience has been that once cob splooges out you can not shape it
> back the way it should by by slapping it with a 2 x 4. If the cob is
> soft enough you can redistribute splooged out cob by putting one hand
> on one side and one hand on the other side of a wall, push in and
> pull up. This will reshape very wet cob. Hitting cob or slapping it
> tends to make it splooge out more. There might be a phase between
> wet and dry where this will work. I have never found that phase, but
> I have never looked for it.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 17:52:18 -0400
> From: Dean Sherwin <costman at verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: [Cob] traditional building, sort of (Henry Raduazo)
> To: coblist at deatech.com
> Message-ID: <0L8W00FYWVG9SHHF at vms173005.mailsrvcs.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> 
> The traditional Devonshire way (original home of cob) as described in 
> Clough Williams Ellis' book, was for the mix to be thrown up in 
> approximate 18" lifts onto the wall. A laborer with more brawn and 
> less brain called the 'donkey' trudged around and compacted the 
> lift. Then it was left for a week or so, depending on weather, 
> season and other jobs needing attention around the farm, until it had 
> set up a bit and then a further lift was applied in the same 
> way. The walls were trimmed down to be vertical and straight and 
> smooth with a sharp edged shovel specially designed for the 
> purpose. No 'splodging". This indicates that the mix was fairly 
> stiff (of course that makes for less shrinkage and cracking) No 
> problem with the layers bonding since the new mix is wet and the 
> previous layer would be somewhat damp, this is earth, not concrete 
> that sets up and will not bond unless green. Of course Devon is 
> generally damp although temperate and a favorite summertime destination..
> 'Come to sunny Devon weather
> Don't forget your umberella' we used to chant as schoolkids.
> 
> At 03:00 PM 9/17/2010, you wrote:
> 
> >Send Coblist mailing list submissions to
> > coblist at deatech.com
> >
> >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist
> >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > coblist-request at deatech.com
> >
> >You can reach the person managing the list at
> > coblist-owner at deatech.com
> >
> >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> >than "Re: Contents of Coblist digest..."
> >
> >
> >Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. Re: traditional building, sort of (Henry Raduazo)
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >Message: 1
> >Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:00:14 -0400
> >From: Henry Raduazo <raduazo at cox.net>
> >Subject: Re: [Cob] traditional building, sort of
> >To: Gergo Szekely <gergo.szekely at mac.com>
> >Cc: coblist at deatech.com
> >Message-ID: <D47F7C44-3E73-4B6A-8C42-FDD65B8DEDA6 at cox.net>
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
> >
> >I have a hard time picturing what he is doing. I too throw cob up on
> >to a wall with a pitchfork, but my cob is too wet to walk on and my
> >experience has been that once cob splooges out you can not shape it
> >back the way it should by by slapping it with a 2 x 4. If the cob is
> >soft enough you can redistribute splooged out cob by putting one hand
> >on one side and one hand on the other side of a wall, push in and
> >pull up. This will reshape very wet cob. Hitting cob or slapping it
> >tends to make it splooge out more. There might be a phase between
> >wet and dry where this will work. I have never found that phase, but
> >I have never looked for it.
> >
> >Ed
> >
> >On Sep 13, 2010, at 5:03 PM, Gergo Szekely wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > It sounds like an interesting idea to me. I am just wondering if
> > > you still get
> > > the same bound between the previous layer and the layer you have
> > > freshly put on.
> > > For some reason I have a feeling if there is a larger amount of
> > > fresh cob on the
> > > wall it could be harder to work the two layers together and create
> > > a good bound
> > > in between them.
> > >
> > > How do you feel about it?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Gergo
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Damon Howell <dhowell at pickensprogress.com>
> > > To: coblist at deatech.com
> > > Sent: Wed, September 1, 2010 11:16:36 AM
> > > Subject: [Cob] traditional building, sort of
> > >
> > > I've been using the pitchfork to heave the cob onto the wall. After
> > > I throw
> > > several heaps up there I climb up on the wall and walk around on
> > > it, letting it
> > > splooge out the sides if it needs to. I go back a day or two and
> > > slap it down
> > > with a 2x4 to the shape it should be. This goes surprisingly fast.
> > > I don't work
> > > on it much though, so I have no idea how much I could put up in a
> > > day. I have
> > > really noticed how important the straw is while using the
> > > pitchfork. If there
> > > isn't enough straw the mix just slips through the tines. I haven't
> > > done the
> > > mixing with the cattle because I don't have any. I mixed a huge
> > > pile of cob with
> > > the bobcat in about 10 minutes, which would have taken me several
> > > days, and a
> > > lot of labor, to do by the tarp method. All you have to do is get the
> > > proportions right, so if it dries out a little too much, just wet
> > > it down and
> > > stomp on it to pack the clay together and it's ready to build with
> > > again!
> > >
> > > Damon in Ga
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Coblist mailing list
> > > Coblist at deatech.com
> > > http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Coblist mailing list
> > > Coblist at deatech.com
> > > http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Coblist mailing list
> >Coblist at deatech.com
> >http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist
> >
> >
> >End of Coblist Digest, Vol 8, Issue 169
> >***************************************
> 
> 
> 
> Dean Sherwin CPE
> Certified Professional Estimator
> LEED Accredited Professional
> CONSTRUCTION COST MANAGEMENT
> 3, Cherry Street
> PO Box 11
> Media, PA 19063-0011
> (610)892 8860
> fax (610) 892 7862
> costman at verizon.net 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 20:05:48 -0700
> From: Janet Standeford <janet.standeford at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Cob] psi testing
> To: Cob List <coblist at deatech.com>
> Message-ID: <4C942C8C.7050708 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> Hi all,
> I turned in the original cylinder of cob to be tested for psi. I needed 
> 350 for a load bearing wall but my walls are not load bearing and the 
> cob tested at 360!
> 
> I'll see whether or not that is good enough. If not, I'll go with the 
> other five in cube form.
> 
> -- 
> Janet Standeford OR
> www.buildingnaturally.info (Owned by you)
> A resource for healthy homes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 09:58:40 -0700
> From: Janet Standeford <janet.standeford at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Cob] PSI Testing
> To: Cob List <coblist at deatech.com>
> Message-ID: <4C94EFC0.4010101 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> Hi there,
> I sent this message last night but never received it for myself so 
> wonder if it got to anyone?
> 
> I had a cylinder tested and load bearing requires 350 psi for adobe, 
> which is the only test they know to do.
> 
> It came back at 360 for my non load bearing walls.
> 
> I should be god to go but need to see if they want the blocks tested 
> instead of accepting the cylinder. Should know early next week.
> 
> -- 
> Janet Standeford OR
> www.buildingnaturally.info (Owned by you)
> A resource for healthy homes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 14:15:10 -0400
> From: "Sigi Koko" <sigikoko at earthlink.net>
> Subject: [Cob] Clay Plaster Workshops in Harford County Maryland
> To: <coblist at deatech.com>, <strawbale at listserv.repp.org>
> Message-ID: <E1Ox1w1-0004Aa-5u at elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> CLAY PLASTER WORKSHOP IN HARFORD COUNTY MARYLAND
> 
> Craig and Adrienne DeRan will be hosting two clay plaster workshops led by
> Sigi Koko of Down to Earth Design on October 2nd & 3rd, and again October
> 9th & 10th. Come and learn how to make beautiful clay plasters using
> on-site soils and apply the plaster onto strawbale walls! The house we are
> working on has many environmentally friendly features, including living
> roofs, super-insulating strawbale walls, in-floor radiant heat from solar
> hot water, and many reclaimed and recycled materials used in construction. 
> 
> WHEN: October 2 & 3 AND October 9 & 10, 8:30 to 5:30
> WHERE: Pylesville, MD (Northern Harford County near the PA line)
> COST: $75 for the weekend ($45 for a single day)
> 
> TO REGISTER:
> Please contact Adrienne DeRan by email (adrienne007 at hotmail.com) at or by
> phone (410-652-1231) to confirm that there is still space in the workshop.
> Directions and details on what to bring will be emailed to those who
> register about 1 week prior to the workshop event. 
> 
> CLAY PLASTER DESCRIPTION:
> Natural plasters provide non-toxic, inexpensive, and beautiful finishes that
> are durable and breathable. They are especially suitable as finishes for
> strawbale walls. Lime plasters/stuccos are particularly suitable for
> exterior finishes and earthen plasters are suitable for interior finishes or
> on well-protected exterior surfaces (or where maintenance is not a bad
> word). Earthen or clay plasters consist of a combination of clay and sand,
> and often also contains some fiber, such as chopped straw. Clay plasters
> are beautiful and durable for interior and protected applications, and
> provide additional thermal mass to interior spaces to help improve energy
> performance. 
> 
> WORKSHOP FORMAT:
> We will begin Saturday morning with an overview of earthen plasters. We
> will follow with a demonstration of the skills used to assess ingredients,
> mix plasters, and apply them to wall surfaces. Everyone will then be
> invited to get hands-on experience. Sunday will provide ample opportunity
> to practice what was learned on Saturday, with a full day of hands-on
> plastering. 
> 
> WORKSHOPS COVER:
> *Overview of natural clay plasters, including benefits and challenges
> *Site tour showing what prep was completed, particularly any lathing
> requirements
> *Demonstration on the art of mixing clay plasters, including how to assess
> on-site materials for suitability and how to determine mixing ratio
> *Demonstration of application techniques
> *Hands-on experience applying clay plaster to strawbale walls
> 
> Please see our website for additional information about workshops taught by
> Down to Earth Design
> http://www.buildnaturally.com/EDucate/Workshops/WO-current.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Coblist mailing list
> Coblist at deatech.com
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> 
> 
> End of Coblist Digest, Vol 8, Issue 170
> ***************************************