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[Cob] cob greenhouse question

john fordice otherfish at comcast.net
Thu Sep 24 11:15:32 CDT 2015


Mqlcome,
Cob and strawbale walls act very differently to loads & while strawbale can be added over cob for insulation, I would not mix them structurally.  Not a good idea.
john

> On Sep 24, 2015, at 6:39 AM, Malcolm Schluenderfritz <mschluenderfritz at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hello John,
> 
> Thanks again. One more question: could the buttresses be straw bale walls? I am thinking that the buttresses protruding from the back wall could be used as a chicken coop, which would benefit from heat from the cob wall, and insulate the greenhouse. I would already have three walls and the roof overhang.
> 
> Yours,
> Malcolm
> 
> On Wed, Sep 23, 2015 at 11:11 PM, john fordice <otherfish at comcast.net <mailto:otherfish at comcast.net>> wrote:
> Hi Malcom,
> Yes, the freestanding ends of your walls and midpoint of the long back wall should still be buttressed.  I’d suggest putting the buttresses on the outside surface of the walls & thus leave the rtransparent greenhouse walls fully open to sunlight.  
> Small p[eces of urbanite should be ok, just don’t make them any bigger than 2 - 3 “.
> john 
>> On Sep 23, 2015, at 3:14 PM, Malcolm Schluenderfritz <mschluenderfritz at gmail.com <mailto:mschluenderfritz at gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello John,
>> 
>> I modified the design. Now the tallest cob wall will be 6 feet. Do I still need buttresses? 
>> 
>> I will leave out the urbanite chunks then. Would small pieces of rubble less then two inches across be OK? I was wondering if they would act like large gravel.
>> 
>> Thanks for your help.
>> 
>> Malcolm
>> 
>> On Sat, Sep 19, 2015 at 10:18 PM, john fordice <otherfish at comcast.net <mailto:otherfish at comcast.net>> wrote:
>> Malcome,
>> A few suggestions relating to the cob:
>> 1. Buttress the open ends of your rear & left end walls.  Make the buttress’s 3 or 4’ long at the stem wall & zero at the wall top.  Add an intermediate buttress at the midpoint of the rear wall.
>> 2. Batter your walls to 12” thick at the top & 18” at the stem wall.
>> 3. Do not put pieces of urbanite in the cob …… bad practice !
>> 
>> This is relative to the cob only ……… the framing of the transparent materials support is another story …… sounds like the loads of the wood & plastic roof / walls will be minimal, so as long as you don’t have heavy concentrated loads either embed your rafters in the cob or add a top plate with deadmen in the wall.   Assuming you know how to make competent cob & build correctly ……… if not, get advice of an experienced cobber.
>> john
>> 
>> > On Sep 19, 2015, at 9:51 AM, Malcolm Schluenderfritz <mschluenderfritz at gmail.com <mailto:mschluenderfritz at gmail.com>> wrote:
>> >
>> > ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> > From: Malcolm Schluenderfritz <mschluenderfritz at gmail.com <mailto:mschluenderfritz at gmail.com>>
>> > Date: Fri, Sep 18, 2015 at 8:40 PM
>> > Subject: Re: [Cob] cob greenhouse question
>> > To: Howard Switzer <howard at earthandstraw.com <mailto:howard at earthandstraw.com>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Hello Howard,
>> >
>> > Thanks for the advice.
>> >
>> > I will try to post a plan soon.
>> >
>> > I am stuck with the 18" base because the foundation is already build. I
>> > agree that it seems something is needed at the North East corner.
>> >
>> > The concrete is to use it up and to speed drying on the wall. (An idea from
>> > "The Hand Sculpted House." ) I got huge loads of broken concrete dumped for
>> > the foundation and for retaining walls on other parts of the site. These
>> > are pieces that are fairly good but not quite square enough for those uses.
>> > Spaced widely (so that they do not form problematic joints) in the core of
>> > the wall, it seems that they will allow me to use less cob, which not only
>> > means faster drying, but also less cob mixing and less purchased sand use.
>> >
>> > I would think that if cob is strong enough to arch over small niches, it
>> > would be strong enough to take a few pieces of concrete inside the wall.
>> > But correct me if I am wrong.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > On Fri, Sep 18, 2015 at 8:29 PM, Howard Switzer <howard at earthandstraw.com <mailto:howard at earthandstraw.com>>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> >> I know John will take good care of you, (do post your plan if you can) but
>> >> basically you got a 16 foot wall braced on one end, right, so sounds like
>> >> you need to brace the other end somehow. Now I expect there will be an east
>> >> wall so you might consider bracing it in such a way as it could serve to
>> >> buttress the end of the wall and you might want to embed some anchors in
>> >> the cob for attaching that bracing wall....or you could just do a cob
>> >> buttress off the end of the wall in the other direction, which is probably
>> >> the better option, just guessing. You might also want to consider battering
>> >> the wall a bit, wider (20") at the bottom than the top (16"), right? Might
>> >> add some more stability. What are the concrete pieces doing in the middle
>> >> of it?  Just trying to get rid of it or something?
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> On Fri, Sep 18, 2015 at 2:31 PM, Malcolm Schluenderfritz <
>> >> mschluenderfritz at gmail.com <mailto:mschluenderfritz at gmail.com>> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> I am building a small greenhouse, 16 feet by 8 feet, and 8 feet tall. The
>> >>> North and West walls will be cob, and about 18 inches thick. I will be
>> >>> inserting some pieces of concrete as we go, in the center of the wall. The
>> >>> walls are straight, not curved.
>> >>> Do I need to add buttresses to this wall to keep it up, or is it thick
>> >>> enough? The North and West walls already form a corner, so they provide at
>> >>> least a little Lateral support to each other.
>> >>> _______________________________________________
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>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> Howard Switzer - Architect
>> >> 668 Hurricane Creek Road
>> >> Linden, TN 37096
>> >> 931 589 6513 <tel:931%20589%206513>
>> >> www.earthandstraw.com <http://www.earthandstraw.com/>
>> >>
>> >> “You never change things by fighting the existing reality.
>> >> To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model
>> >> obsolete.”
>> >> ― Richard Buckminster Fuller
>> >> <http://www.goodreads.com/author/show/165737.Richard_Buckminster_Fuller <http://www.goodreads.com/author/show/165737.Richard_Buckminster_Fuller>>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Malcolm Schluenderfritz
>> > Secretary,
>> >
>> > The Saint Isidore Society,
>> > saintisidoresociety.wordpress.com <http://saintisidoresociety.wordpress.com/>
>> > _______________________________________________
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>> > http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist <http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Malcolm Schluenderfritz
>> Secretary,
>> 
>> The Saint Isidore Society,
>> saintisidoresociety.wordpress.com <http://saintisidoresociety.wordpress.com/>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Malcolm Schluenderfritz
> Secretary,
> 
> The Saint Isidore Society,
> saintisidoresociety.wordpress.com <http://saintisidoresociety.wordpress.com/>