[Cob] foundation, concrete
Amanda Peck
ap615 at hotmail.com
Tue Jan 10 16:46:14 CST 2006
Gernot Minke is pretty interesting--some years back I spent a long evening
once going through pages and pages of a search, finding odd things like
winners (he was a judge) of a natural building competition in Argentina or
somewhere, for instance.
I truly don't know enough about earthquakes to tell you anything.
A couple of years ago I mixed some sort of vaguely light clay stuff--wood
shavings and clay, packed a couple of samples with it. Not tightly enough.
There was a bit of shrinking. But I expect that even if I had used sawdust
it would be rough enough to take plaster quite nicely. One of the
samples--the one actually in a building isn't going anywhere--it's anchored
with a couple of dozen screws every place they could be put into the frame.
Next time I'm down at the barn I'll pick the other one up and shake it.
Early Americans used to actually use rain water to wash in and with. But
they set out spring water for drinking--it may indeed taste a little better.
But the water you're washing in and with does come in contact with your
skin and clothes and dishes. So, sort of, it's a better safe than sorry
attitude on my part. And right here it's kind of a long ways to the
springs. When I move up the hill it will be even farther. Some of the
metal roofs--galvanized steel or galvalume, a few of the baked on enamels
are certified for potable water. It's widely believed, although not known
for sure, that all of the galvanized stuff is fine for a roof, maybe not for
a cistern. I want a low-slope roof, though, for one buildng, and the metal
roofs work better on the steeper slopes.
One thing you can do on cob or other buildings where support might be ugly
or a problem is to build the roof first, sitting on posts that will give you
good overhang protection for your walls, and--easy for cob--build up to
either the roof or a box-type plate that might be already installed. A few
brave souls--with small buildings and lots of friends have even built the
roof too high and then lowered it onto the finished wall. Gives you room to
work out of the rain, places to put stuff. It may be one of those things
that should be run by an engineer before you try it, especially with a
good-sized house. I'm thinking that the building I'm planning that can be
done this way can have the posts set close enough together so that the roof
is supported enough that I could keep it a picnic shelter if I wanted.
....................
Predrag wrote (snipped):
Thanks again! I've tried to visit that URL, it seems the page doesn't exist
more, but I found other pages about professor Gernot Minke and his books.
I understand that nothing can help in a big earthquake, and I only would
like to prevent the house from smaller ones and from smaller earth slipping
(of course I should avoid choosing such places). In that case maybe grade
beam is not necessary?
Regarding wattle and daub I must admit that I haven't got a sense how earth
and straw will stick to wattle (and plaster as well) and what will happen
years after that? It seems to me cob will better accept plastering then
wattle and daub or I am wrong?
The idea about using roof to give potable water is also very interesting. I
was informed only about obtaining non potable water.