[Cob] cordwood vs. cob drying

[Dulane]

Thanks Phil and all...

Good info on wood shrinkage and solutions to it. I especially liked the 
cob/lime putty recipe for resealing.

Would you use chopped straw or ANY straw in the putty mix?

I think I will keep the cordwood flush (not protruding) with the wall on the 
inside...in case I feel the need to plaster over it in the future. And my 
cottage is so small...I doubt if I will have much trouble heating it. In 
fact...heating will probably cause the wood to dry faster on the inside.

Thanks again!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "phil" <philhawnnc at excite.com>
To: <coblist at deatech.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 6:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Cob] cordwood vs. cob drying


|
| I have worked with both cob and mortar cordwood and though I prefer the 
cob, both work just fine.
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| All corwood walls will have shrinkage issues, and all wood "checks." As to 
air infiltration, the big problem is where the cordwood meets framing that 
you have the biggest problem, easily fixed with some form of chinking. Where 
the wood shrinks and pulls away from the mortar may look like a big problem, 
but in fact should be a small issue if you have insulated the interior 
cavity properly. The insulation slows down any air transfer.
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|
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| If you use cob as your mortar, you only have to rewet the cob around the 
wood and use your finger to reseal the joints. If the wall is going to be 
exposed to a lot of rain, consider adding lime putty to your cob mix. Less 
than 5% should work, but where gloves while working.
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| While it is possible to plaster cordwood, you will have to expect cracks 
in the shape of the wood underneath due to the mix of materials and their 
affect on drying. In the northeast, many cordwood homes have been covered in 
clapboard, according to Rob Roy.
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| Lastly, to avoid large checks in the wood, split anything larger than six 
inches in diameter. The wedges make it possible to use less mortar and make 
a tighter more pleasing pattern.
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| Phil
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