[Cob] lime render fail or just wet?
Gena Arthur
genaarthur at hotmail.com
Sun Feb 26 12:35:12 CST 2017
Hello,
I have a small strawbale cottage and when the prevailing winds blow rain into the lime render it does appear wet as well. Not sure if that is helpful or not.
> On Feb 26, 2017, at 2:01 PM, "coblist-request at deatech.com" <coblist-request at deatech.com> wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
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> 1. Re: Lime Render - FAILURE (Shannon Dealy)
>
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> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
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> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 14:56:44 +0100 (CET)
> From: Shannon Dealy <dealy at deatech.com>
> To: coblist at deatech.com
> Subject: Re: [Cob] Lime Render - FAILURE
> Message-ID: <alpine.DEB.2.11.1702261456150.25248 at nashapur.deatech.com>
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
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>> On Wed, 22 Feb 2017, Bill Wright wrote:
>>
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/2657yta5fpeyec2/Photo%20Feb%2021%2C%208%2000%2037%20AM.jpg?dl=0
>>
>> DISCUSSION OF PHOTO:
>> You can see in the photo that the lime-containing render is getting saturated
>> with the water from rains blowing onto the building where the prevailing
>> winds are doing their work. IS THIS PROOF that the mechanism at play here is
>> water making its way through the lime-containing render into the earthen
>> brown coat below, and the swelling action of the deeper middle layer cracking
>> the lime-containing outer render? It appears that way to me.
>
> I'm afraid that all this really tells us is that the wet surface looks
> significantly different from the dry surface. It doesn't tell us anything about
> the depth of penetration. There are similar differences between wet and dry
> areas on the outside of three buildings I have which are just bare cob walls
> (over 10+ years exposure on all three buildings). Of course since I haven't
> plastered there is no outer layer for the water to get beneath, however, my
> bare walls are far more absorbant than the plaster mix you describe is likely
> to be.
>
> I'm afraid the only way I can think of to get more information is to pick a
> spot in a wet area without any nearby cracks, dry the surface of the
> surrounding area with a towel, cut a hole through the plaster with an
> old chisel and see how deep the moisture goes. You should also be able to tell
> how well the plaster is bonded to the wall in this area.
>
>> The question I'm sitting with. . . Will lime-putty in the cracks, and a lime
>> wash on top of that be the best fix?
>
> This would certainly be my approach, though I would use a lime-sand mix with
> fine sand rather than straight lime putty to fill in large cracks
> (sand reduces/prevents shrinkage). Ideally you want your patch mix to match
> your surface as much a possible and refloat the surface to blend the patch in.
> The lime wash is a good idea, but will not hide any significant differences in
> the appearance of different areas of the wall (that takes time and multiple
> coats).
>
> One thing I just realized, you didn't mention any kind of fiber in your plaster
> mix. While plasters can be done without fiber, using fiber can greatly reduce
> the chances of cracking, particularly fine cracks.
>
>
> Shannon C. Dealy | DeaTech Research Inc.
> dealy at deatech.com | Biotechnology Development Services
> Telephone USA: +1 541-929-4089 | USA and the Netherlands
> Netherlands: +31 85 208 5570 | www.deatech.com
>
>
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