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Cob Masonry StovesRobert Bolman robtb at efn.orgThu Aug 7 00:27:57 CDT 1997
Speireag writes: In my ongoing quest for the perfect construction, I have run across references to masonry stoves, but no good definition for one. How do I make one? Must I buy one? What are the parameters? What must I allow for in construction? Are they all huge? I too have an ongoing quest for the perfect construction. On that quest I've also looked at masonry heaters. They can be very expensive - enough so that I wouldn't feel comfortable spending that kind of money - even if I had it. There are kits made up of pre-cast refractory modules for a design called "contra flow" that stack up relatively easily to form the basic core which then will presumable be covered with brick or tile. I personally would consider covering the thing with cob. You'd probably want to have some kind of a thin expansion membrane to avoid cracking, but after that you could make the thing as massive or creative as you wish. Given that much of the charm of a radiant heated slab is in having the warmth where it is in frequent and direct contact with the human body, there is a good argument for the heated cob bench as built by Cob Cottage Company. Having little direct experience with them, I worry that the down draft combustion system that they typically employ can be problematic. Also, I was recently unable to get one through the City of Eugene Building Department. They have never been suitably tested. Still though, they seem like a good idea. I think of it as the poor person's masonry heater. Instead of possibly thousands of dollars in fire brick, you're talking a few dollars worth of scrap steel parts and a lot of earth, sand and straw. Being in the form of a bench, the heat is pleasurably applied to your butt. Due to the massiveness, the heat will presumably be retained for many hours after the fire goes out - especially if within a straw bale structure. If designed well, little or no smoke will be visible exiting the chimney and the exiting gases will be about 300 degrees (F) - relatively cool meaning that the heat has been left where it's supposed to be. Any combustion enginoids care to run with that one? I could go into greater detail about the down draft combustion. Robert Bolman
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