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Cob & Timber FrameMichael Shafer mbshafer at telerama.lm.comTue Feb 2 17:05:46 CST 1999
Greetings to all, As a new comer to Cob techniques I'm going to respond here with caution as I'm not familiar with such items as moisture content the finished product. Regarding timer frame structures three primary factors come to mind regarding longevity in regards to moisture exposure. The primary factor would be the type of wood. Some woods, like locust, are almost legendary in their resistance to rot or as my West Virginian grandfather once said "It'll last just a bit longer than stone." Another good rot resistant wood is white oak. The second factor is whether the wood is heartwood or has a large portion of sapwood. Evidence indicates that the old timber cut from the virgin forests, being all old growth heartwood, had much greater longevity. Sapwood, in general, doesn't stand up to moisture and thus rot. The third factor is relative moisture content. If the materials contacting the wood are around 20% or less in moisture content there shouldn't be a problem. Most species of wood can stand up to a continuous exposure to moisture up to a point. In closing, what types of wood you will encounter in an old TF structure isn't a certainty. While more experienced builders and house-wrights would choose the timbers more carefully it must be remembered that a large number of TF structures were owner built. Just as today, the levels of knowledge and experience varied widely. However, if the structure lasted 150-200 years it's likely that it was built by a knowlegeable builder and with well chosen woods. Best Regards, Michael Shafer Schäffer Wood Works Timber Framing & Fine Wood Working Pittsburgh, PA mbshafer at telerama.lm.com -----Original Message----- From: p.mcmillin at pecorp.com <p.mcmillin at pecorp.com> To: coblist at deatech.com <coblist at deatech.com> Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 5:22 PM Subject: Cob & Timber Frame My wife and I are kicking around the idea of reusing timbers from old barns to erect a timber frame. We then plan to use cob walls instead of the standard structural insulated panels(SIPs). Has anyone tried this technique? What about termites and post rot? -------------- next part -------------- <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META content=text/html;charset=iso-8859-1 http-equiv=Content-Type> <META content='"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=GENERATOR> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 face=Arial size=2>Greetings to all,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>As a new comer to Cob techniques I'm going to respond here with caution as I'm not familiar with such items as moisture content the finished product.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Regarding timer frame structures three primary factors come to mind regarding longevity in regards to moisture exposure.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 face=Arial size=2>The primary factor would be the type of wood. Some woods, like locust, are almost legendary in their resistance to rot or as my West Virginian grandfather once said "It'll last just a bit longer than stone." Another good rot resistant wood is white oak.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The second factor is whether the wood is heartwood or has a large portion of sapwood. Evidence indicates that the old timber cut from the virgin forests, being all old growth heartwood, had much greater longevity. Sapwood, in general, doesn't stand up to moisture and thus rot.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The third factor is relative moisture content. If the materials contacting the wood are around 20% or less in moisture content there shouldn't be a problem. Most species of wood can stand up to a continuous exposure to moisture up to a point.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>In closing, what types of wood you will encounter in an old TF structure isn't a certainty. While more experienced builders and house-wrights would choose the timbers more carefully it must be remembered that a large number of TF structures were owner built. Just as today, the levels of knowledge and experience varied widely. However, if the structure lasted 150-200 years it's likely that it was built by a knowlegeable builder and with well chosen woods.</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 face=Arial size=2>Best Regards,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 face=Arial size=2>Michael Shafer <BR>Schäffer Wood Works<BR>Timber Framing & Fine Wood Working<BR>Pittsburgh, PA <BR><A href="mailto:mbshafer at telerama.lm.com">mbshafer at telerama.lm.com</A> </FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><B>-----Original Message-----</B><BR><B>From: </B><A href="mailto:p.mcmillin at pecorp.com">p.mcmillin at pecorp.com</A> <<A href="mailto:p.mcmillin at pecorp.com">p.mcmillin at pecorp.com</A>><BR><B>To: </B><A href="mailto:coblist at deatech.com">coblist at deatech.com</A> <<A href="mailto:coblist at deatech.com">coblist at deatech.com</A>><BR><B>Date: </B>Tuesday, February 02, 1999 5:22 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Cob & Timber Frame<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>My wife and I are kicking around the idea of reusing timbers from old barns<BR>to erect a timber frame. We then plan to use cob walls instead of the<BR>standard structural insulated panels(SIPs). Has anyone tried this<BR>technique? What about termites and post rot?<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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