Cob: Bermed cob??

[Darel Henman]

Dorethy,
 
 remember you can also put into the berm an "umbrella" about ? two feet
down or so to keep the water from getting close to your walls.  This
will also keep the soil temperatures more steady since it will remain
dry. 

Some people, the annual geothermal housing concept liking people, will
also put insulation under this umbrella.

Dorethy F Hancock wrote:
> 
...... Since I plan to
> berm the house on the north, I don't think that side can be cob.  Tell me
> if I'm wrong, but I think that will be too much moisture, too close. 

> I believe that the answer may lie in rammed tires on the north and curving
> around partway on the west and east sides.  Does anyone have an idea
> whether there will be interface problems between this and the cob of the
> remainder of the building?


You shouldn't have any problems.  I would key in the walls somehow
though, with ropes from the tires which would get embedded in the cob,
perhaps to a bamboo anchor embedded in the cob by rope to the rammed
tires.  Or some other means of getting a durable connection between the
two.  Also if theses walls are structurally sound individually, there
might not be a need for strength connections.  The materal interface
should be easy enough to work out in my opinion.

For boards, I've seend rope wrapped around them to increase the cob/daub
mixtures keying in and holding.  


> Oh--one more thing.  I'd like to get some practice by building a cob
> toilet ("red or white??" --if you're old enough to catch that, ha!)
> Actually, I thought part of the building could be a tool storage shed,
> with the toilet in the corner, or on one end.  Any clues on how to start
> the pit and foundation?

I hope you mean compost toilets, which don't require flush water.  ??? 
I recommend you read the "Humanure" book.  I has lots of information and
ideas on building compost toilets.

> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Dorethy from Kansas

How is Toto these days?

Darel