Cob:lime misinformation> was wattle wall

[Myra Bonhage-Hale]

Hi, here is what Rodale's Organic Gardening Enclyclopedia says about lime:
"Chemically, lime is the oxide of calcium, with a chemical formula CaO.  It
occurs in limestone, marble and chalk as calcium carbonate, CaCO3.  If these
substances are heated carbon dioxide, CO2, escapes as a gas, and CaO, or
quick-lime remains.  If the quick-lime is now combined with the corect
amount of water, slaked lime or hydrate of lime Ca (OH)2 results.

Any of these three substances may be used to alkalize soil.  At various
times each of the three has had a vogue.  The difference in their action
relates to the organic life of the soil, rather than to the chemical change,
which is the same in each case.

Quick-lime, CaO, will unite with water in the soil to form a hydrate.  If
enough actual water is not available, as it seldom is, the quick-lime
wrenches water from living organisms in the soil, such as bacteria, fungi or
plant roots, usually burning them enough to bring about their death.  If
mature or other nitrogenous fertilizers are present, the quick-lime will
unite with nitrogen compounds they contain to rob them of their water, and
will free the nitrogen as a gas, lowering the amount of nitrogen in the soil
in compounds wich can be used by plants.

Hydrate of lime has already united its calcium with water, so it will not
have the burning effect of quick-lime.  However, hydrate of lime is lime in
readily available condition, ready to be used immediately in the soil.  When
rain water washes trhough the soil, it dissolves the hydrate of lime, which
can quickly leach down to soil levels where it cannot be reached by plant
roots.

Ground limestone is the form in which lime is best applied to soil to
provide lime in a beneficial form which will be available over a long period
of time.  In order to be of use immediately and to continue to break down
for gradual use over a period of years, limestone should be ground fine
enough to sift through a 100-mesh sieve.  In this form the lime will be
exposed to water in the soil in sufficient quantities to dissolve slowly,
but the entire application will not have dissolved for several
years...........The primary  use for lime in the garden or farm is as an
alkalizer, to raise the pH factor of the soil."
Rodale, J.I., Editor-in-Chief etal.  The Encylopedia of Organic Gardening,
Rodale Books, Inc., Emmaus Penna 18049.  pp. 661-662.  (Sorry I couldn't put
the # of the chemical below the line - my computer doesn't do that).

Now, it would seem to me that you would not want to splash or spill your
hydrated lime on the ground surrounding your cob building as it might burn
roots and inhibit growth of plants around your home.  It seems to be
important also to be able to know the difference between quick lime and  CaO
and slaked or hydrate of lime Ca(OH)2 when buying the lime for plastering
the walls.  Also, as Charmaine mentioned earlier, it is incumbent upon the
user to be sure they do not inhale the lime (in any form, actually) or hurt
their skin in the process of liming a wall.  As to crushed gypsum wall
board, I would be wary of what other chemicals might have been used in
manufacturing the product.  As a matter of fact, as I had an extra piece of
wall board in my shed, the W.V. cobber learners who had gathered at La Paix
last weekend discussed the possibility of using it and discarded the idea as
too chancy.  So much to learn, so little time!!!!  I hope I have not taken
up too much time.  When you garden organically, you have to be almost or
somewhat paranoid about what you are using on your plants and in your soil -
as so many products have "inert" ingredients etc.  Namaste.  Myra
Visit me on the web at www.lapaixherbaljourney.com
and www.sustainabledevelopmentforwv.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charmaine R Taylor" <tms at northcoast.com>
To: "Myra Bonhage-Hale" <lapaix at iolinc.net>
Cc: "Amanda Peck" <ap615 at hotmail.com>; <coblist at deatech.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: Cob:lime misinformation> was wattle wall


> Myrna said: Hydrated lime is not used for organic gardening and is on
> the no-no list because of its chemically derived state.
>
> +++++++++++This is simply not true...lime is inert, and it is only
crushed, heated and slaked, there is no "chemical" processing other than the
exothermic reaction when heat is given off during slaking, and that is at
the factory.   The NO NO part may simply be the fact that is it production
process and and requires fuel to heat it...not for any other reason.
>
> Lime IS very drying to the skin and can burn sensitive people, always wear
protection.
>
> Actually in the 1920s hydrated lime was used for gardening, is neutralizes
acidic soil, as  simple crushed lime is  not going to react with the soil AT
ALL.
>
> Dolomitic lime is just one type of lime based on it's origin, the US has
lots of dolomitic lime , and  high calcium lime is found in the US and
Europe. The Dolomite Mt. ranges are dolomitic lime.
>
> Hydrated lime combines with the soil to stabilize, neutralize   and "
sweeten" it, making it better for growing.   Crushed lime, Ag lime-- is just
a ground filler, not going to do anything by separate particles, which is a
small assistance to the gardener.
>
> There is a lot of misinformation on products out there, and lime is the
biggest one.  It doesn't hurt to use just Ag lime, but it doesn't do much
either, and it is cheap.  You can get crushed gypsum wall board from
deinstallers and add that to a garden and it does the same thing..as a
filler to break up clay.
>
>  My comments come from extensive research in the history of lime use in
the US, plus documentation by the National Lime Assn.
>
> Powdered hydrated lime spread on the garden and raked in will do much more
than Ag lime, but ALL people should  wear gloves and goggles due to the
drying nature. LIme is not toxic or harmful, bust harsh to skin.
>
> Actually people EAT lime all the time..look on a package of TUMS and see
the ingredient..calcium carbonate..lime..food grade, to neutralize
acids..just like it does for the soil.
>
> I recommend people read the free info on the web on lime to learn more.
>
> National Lime Association at http://www.lime.org
>
>
> Lime Online italy at http://www.limeonline.it
> Has many good articles in English
>
> Consortium of producers-
> http://www.e-limecementgypsum.com/
>
> J & J Sharpe are Lime specialist suppliers and contractors.
> http://www.jjsharpe.co.uk/
>
> Limewash
> http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/awash/awash.html
>
> Battersby Ornamental Lime Plasters-restoration:
> http://www.battersbyornamental.com/
>
> AU- Lime over SB renders Article:
> -http://barney.webace.com.au/~agstraw/lime.html
>
> Natural Cement , at http://www.naturalcement.com, is all about a
> unique European imestone with amazing properties of fast hardening.
>
> Articles on Pozzolans (clay binders for lime) The best site is
> theNational Parks Service online at http://www2.cr.nps.gov/tps, an
> excellent list of preservation and restoration articles, many are good for
natural
> building. Also see this article at
> http://www.qcl.com.au/pozz/tech/poz_tncn.htm
>
>
> Ms. Charmaine  Taylor/ Taylor Publishing
> http://www.dirtcheapbuilder.com
> http://www.papercrete.com
> PO Box 375, Eureka  CA 95534
> books at dirtcheapbuilder.com
> 707-441-1632
>
>
>
>
>