Rethink Your Life! Finance, health, lifestyle, environment, philosophy |
The Work of Art and The Art of Work Kiko Denzer on Art |
|
|
[Cob] Re:colors and FLOOR PARTYBarbara Roemer and Glenn Miller roemiller at infostations.netSat May 29 23:45:20 CDT 2004
Suggestions/experience: Our floor is rock hard, though not marble smooth so a broom drags over it a bit. That problem could have been solved with the right trowel. What we did (long, skip if you're not into details!): Gravel Scoria or lava rock for insulation cobbish mix of long straw, clay, lots of sand at this point we set in chunks of plywood that were the size of the tile patches plus their grout lines where we planned to lay them at the back door and the bathtub. The ply was thickness of the next two layers, about 3/4" finish layers: clay/lots of sand/finer chopped straw: result - quite a few cracks of a little more than 1/8", despite test samples that didn't crack (they weren't big enough - test at meter square patches, full depth, drying in the same area where your floor will be). Trowelled out with wood trowels and steel pool trowels. Used coarse sand so it would remain permeable for next layer. Final: Linseed oil worked into the final mix - about a half gallon to a quantity that covered about 120 sq ft, at 1/4" depth. Clay, finely screened (window screening) straw, coarse sand. Trowelled with wood trowel to force mix into cracks. No more cracking, but a little too much tooth. Still beautiful, no cracks, very hard, stands up to constant foot traffic in and out the back door which is in the bathroom. Gets mopped weekly, swept in between. Troweling with steel trowel would have produced a smoother finish, as would finer sand. The coarse sand let a lot of oil penetrate, contributing greatly to the hardness. Floor continued to harden over several months. Finish: two coats Bio-Shield Hard Oil #9, $$$ (we could have used boiled linseed had we done the floor earlier and been able to keep the windows open, but it's just too volatile for too long in cool fall or winter weather when the windows are mostly closed). After the floor was oiled, I screwed two big screws partway into the plywood pieces so I could remove them by yanking up on them (had to cut away a little floor mix that had extended over the ply edge - used a lino knife). Laid a thinset mortar bed in those tile spaces to have something that would level easily and wouldn't allow movement or any spaces between itself and the tile. Tile is kind of thin Mexican travertine, so cracks if there are any voids under it. Laid another thinset coat in which I set the tiles. Let it all set up after carefully cleaning off the earthen floor, easier because it had been oiled - the thinset will leave a light grey permanent stain otherwise. Picked out the excess thinset between the tiles with a pencil, a knife, a stick. Mixed some more floor mix with lots of oil and grouted the tile with that - matches the floor perfectly, is at the same level, looks great. Also set tiles up the wall in a toilet niche just with the floor mix, no thinset. Screed boards makes it easy to work larger areas. Our dark red clay makes a dark red brown floor - shows dusty footprints, but not much else.
|