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[Cob] floors- cob-limeJill Hogan jill.hogan at mat.org.za
Sat Feb 19 01:58:32 PST 2011
I have natural floors, 200mm of stone compacted, then 100mm of cob, and then 1/2 inch lime plaster screed onto the floor and scratched for a for then second layer of lime render, if your cob is dry, you can walk on the render next day. We usually leave it for about a week and then put the final scree of lime render on. Can walk onb this in about 5 days to a week. I then leave it as long as possible to dry, some times only weeks some places months, then we seal it with linseed oil and bees wax and my floors are beautiful and long lasting. The lime render is 1 lime, 3 a good building sand(what you might call a river sand with a 1 - 10 varient of particles) and a half earth. If it has a high contect of clay use less if the earth has a high content of sand use more earth with clay. Do teat patches, if it cracks too much clay if it is sand too much sand. Enjoy your floors JIll On 2011/02/19 12:37 AM, Charmaine Taylor wrote: > Has anyone done a cob floor with lime plaster as a finish? Seems to > me it would be better than beeswax and linseed oil > > +++++++++++++ > Damon- one of the most amazing floors ever is 2,000 years old in the Middle > East.. a 1/2" thick polished lime floor. But under it is prolly stone or > marble, not just dirt. > > Your lime floor would need many MONTHS or a year+ to cure before putting > weight on it, esp. feet of chairs, etc. this is because the lime KEEPS > curing over decades getting harder all the time til it is stone again. the > PSI is very low for years. > SO you can't look at thick lime - just 1/2" or less because you can't > cure lime several inches or even 1.5 inches thick in short time.. it needs > air to harden back to limestone. > > So it would not be practical. But begin NOW and you could pre-cast floor > squares, and CURE them all before laying down, with wet cob/lime as > mortar' > > if you live in your house for years, why not plan a floor that can be put > in later as part of design/maintenance? > > I made several test floor squares pouring a 2" thick clay-lime- sawdust mix > using a cardboard lid as a form then laid in a thick slate, let cure 2 > months. and set out in the yard as a step stone as a test. > It lasted 4 years before the slate only lifted off of the base, it needed > a lime mortar to grip it again. it had lain on a thin layer of gravel over > dirt in our rainy PNW, and it lasted! > > > if you use the pre-cast squares you could lay the floor whenever you want, a > room or space at a time and just pour the wall edges where it curves, you > might even design the floor with areas that can have 'lift out' squares as > they wear from use > > or 'easiest'-- why not get dark or colorful ceramic tiles (scrap/free?) and > let the cob or lime be the grout between them. > > -- *Jill Hogan* McGregor Alternative Technology Centre "MAT" PO Box 365 McGregor 6708 www.mat.org.za <http://www.mat.org.za> Phone: 023 625 1533 Signature "Be the change you wish to see" Mohandas Ghandi If you do not wish to receive these mails, email us with unsubscribe in the subject. Thanks
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