[Cob] Making lime

[Pavel Velikodvorsky]

Hello, everyone!
it would be interesting to know about the shredded paper :)
I am experimenting with the natural plasters on my cob walls and used the
oakum (which we name here in Ukraine and Russia - paklya, which refers to
"pack"; this thing old-school plumbers use for the pipe joints etc.)
http://images.sevstar.net/images/22538395346718301675.jpg
http://images.sevstar.net/images/34258188061477524389.jpg
http://images.sevstar.net/images/35867118834996389284.jpg

It really looks and feel and works better for me than the chopped straw. No
lime, just sieved clay - the same i used for the cob, sieved quarry sand
and water. Very cool stuff, and it works great!

Hope it's ok that it is a little off Mike's topic ;)

All the best for all,
Pasha


On Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 8:10 PM, Predrag Cvetkovic <predragcv at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Ed, what is (approximately) the size of shredded paper? Did you choose that
> because it is easier to work with then with shredded straw (results are
> better?) or  you just didn't have straw?
> Predrag
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 1:06 PM, Henry Raduazo <raduazo at cox.net> wrote:
>
> >         I have a supply of lime which is free for anyone in the
> Washington
> > DC area. I used a lot less then I thought I needed.
> >         Instead of covering my strictures with lime putty, I made a putty
> > of earth plaster from clay, shredded paper and fine sand. Then I just
> > coated this with lime paint. It saves a heck of a lot of lime and the
> > finished result looks a lot better. That is because you can re-wet mud
> > plaster and hard trowel it to make it perfect before you apply the lime.
> >         I have tried using sand/lime putty, and once the stuff is hard
> you
> > can't do anything with it. It has to be perfect before you let it harden.
> > That is a good trick even if you are doing only a small section of wall
> > surface. I really screwed up trying to lime putty a 12 foot by 10 foot
> > section of wall in one day. My brother and I messed with that all day and
> > it still does not look half as good as lime painted mud plaster.
> >
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > On Jun 1, 2014, at 10:20 AM, Mike Creedy wrote:
> >
> > > I need lime to use on my dome. Having done some research, it seems that
> > a high calcium lime is the way to go. Not to get into the lime in the
> > market place, perhaps it would be useful to make some from sea shells.
> So I
> > collected about a ton of clean oyster shells, washed and stored them.
> > > I have a rocket heater under construction and can try keep the temp.
> > around 860 degrees C. (Hopefully). Have a pyrometer to monitor.
> > > In days gone by...... Back in the land of my fathers... They burned in
> > "ricks" as you may well know. This burn lasted more than 24 hrs. ? My
> > question is...
> > > Using the smaller quantities (to start with, only 30 gal. drum), how
> > long should I fire to drive off the CO2 and gasses and if it is under
> > fired, can I re-fire the shells that are under fired?
> > > Efficiency of the firing probably has a lot to do with the old time
> > firing for many hours, so basically I would like to know about the
> > re-firing really. Perhaps fire for say 4 hrs and check. If it under-fired
> > it can be used for Tabby mortar?
> > > Hopefully there's some experience out there which will point in the
> > right direction.
> > > Best regards
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Floridadomehome.com
> > >
> > >
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