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Cob: Re: Use of Forms?SANCO Enterprises, LLC chansey at earthlink.netSun Dec 29 00:55:18 CST 2002
Ray said,
> Does this mean that the cob can be mixed and then just poured into the
> forms, like concrete? I haven't heard anything about this approach and
> would like to know if anyone has any information or comments about it.
Water is the weak link in any masonry including cob, adobe, rammed earth and even concrete. You want to keep the slump as low as possible (a stiff mix). Makes a stronger material, shrinks less and dries faster.
The purists would tell you that unless the clay/straw is mixed with bare feet and placed by hand it isn't cob.
Moderates will tell you that it's ok to mix clay/straw in a mixer, but you have to place it by hand.
Others will say to do it any way you can with what you have available.
To answer your question directly, there are a least 3 patents that describe earthen wall construction using forms, clay and straw. There are also 2 patents that describe using only a single sided form and blowing both clay and straw at the panel (similar to gunite). There are also a number of stabilizers such as lime, cement, asphalt emulsion, lignin and a host of others that can be part of the mix if one desires to use them.
Forms are expensive to buy or build and require a good deal of labor to place and remove. If you have access to the forms and have some free labor, you can definitely build quickly and inexpensively.
I am in the process of building a 5 foot high by 10" wide earthen wall that is over 800 feet long. No footing will be used. I have placed recycled telephone poles at 20 feet on center and constructed a 20" X 20" wire cage around each pole. I have constructed several removable forms to go around each wire cage/post to create a pilaster and they are filled with cement stabilized soil. Between the pilasters a 4" high "grade beam" on grade has been placed using a 1.5 sack mix with 2 ea #4 rebar just below the surface. The soil below the beam was compacted prior to placement. Needless to say there were skeptics when I started and now it looks just like any other wall.
I say go for it.
SANCO Enterprises, LLC
Paul Salas, General Manager
P.O. Box 45741
Rio Rancho, NM 87174
(505) 238-1485
chansey at earthlink.net
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<DIV>Ray said,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>> Does this mean that the cob can be mixed and then just poured
into the<BR>> forms, like concrete? I haven't heard anything about this
approach and<BR>> would like to know if anyone has any information or
comments about it.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Water is the weak link in any masonry including cob, adobe, rammed
earth and even concrete. You want to keep the slump as low as
possible (a stiff mix). Makes a stronger material, shrinks less and dries
faster.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The purists would tell you that unless the clay/straw is mixed with bare
feet and placed by hand it isn't cob. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Moderates will tell you that it's ok to mix clay/straw in a mixer, but
you have to place it by hand.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Others will say to do it any way you can with what you have
available.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>To answer your question directly, there are a least 3 patents that describe
earthen wall construction using forms, clay and straw. There are
also 2 patents that describe using only a single sided form and blowing both
clay and straw at the panel (similar to gunite). There are also a number of
stabilizers such as lime, cement, asphalt emulsion, lignin and a host of others
that can be part of the mix if one desires to use them.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Forms are expensive to buy or build and require a good deal of labor to
place and remove. If you have access to the forms and have some free
labor, you can definitely build quickly and inexpensively.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I am in the process of building a 5 foot high by 10" wide earthen wall that
is over 800 feet long. No footing will be used. I have placed
recycled telephone poles at 20 feet on center and constructed a 20" X 20" wire
cage around each pole. I have constructed several removable forms to go around
each wire cage/post to create a pilaster and they are filled with cement
stabilized soil. Between the pilasters a 4" high "grade beam"
on grade has been placed using a 1.5 sack mix with 2 ea #4 rebar just below the
surface. The soil below the beam was compacted prior to
placement. Needless to say there were skeptics when I started and now it
looks just like any other wall.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I say go for it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>SANCO Enterprises, LLC<BR>Paul Salas, General Manager<BR>P.O. Box
45741<BR>Rio Rancho, NM 87174<BR>(505) 238-1485<BR><A
href="mailto:chansey at earthlink.net">chansey at earthlink.net</A><BR></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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