Rethink Your Life! Finance, health, lifestyle, environment, philosophy |
The Work of Art and The Art of Work Kiko Denzer on Art |
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[Cob] oiling cobYun Que yunk88 at hotmail.comMon Feb 5 07:53:32 CST 2007
cat here In my cabinet shop oiling and waxing wood was the premium way to get a glow and the deeper the penetration of oil the more luster...It must dry however and that can take allot of time...The old way was to oil once a day for a week, once a week for a year, once a year forever. it will also make the wood nearly water proof. Allot of the folks in the hills oil their gun butts the same way. With clay the dry time is going to be very different...land movers in WV will tell me that once clay has been disturbed it takes 7 years to settle down into a solid mass that can be considered stable. Put enough oil in it and you get plastesine (play clay) which never gets hard. The last consideration is the heat from that radiant floor. The heat could I suppose dry out the oil faster but it could also fester. I have oiling allot of cabinets I would say I would not like that warm stuff leeching up under my bare feet. Baked or glazed tile with lime mortar and some nice hemp or wool rugs sounds much more cozy and planet considerate...their is bamboo flooring out their. It has the advantage of being very renewable, (big grass) harder than maple, water resistant in its natural state, the draw back is that most of the stuff available is laminated with glues and resins (haven't researched their ecological impact or content) and most are urethaned. Urethane is in my opinion not a very good floor finish for a multitude of reasons. Somewhere on this list in the past someone noted that a radiant floor had caused their feet to dry and crack from walking continually on the warm surface...It was never said if this was due to the temp of the floor, the sensitivity of their skin, or the floor finish. More questions than answers here sorry! for the good of all C. ______________________________________________________________ From: "paul" <dotpaul at paulleblanc.net> To: <coblist at deatech.com> Subject: Re: [Cob] oiling cob Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 23:32:25 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: from vogon.deatech.com ([69.59.212.73]) by bay0-mc11-f5.bay0.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(6.0.3790.2444); Sun, 4 Feb 2007 20:39:32 -0800 Received: from localhost([127.0.0.1] helo=vogon.deatech.com ident=list)by vogon.deatech.com with esmtp (Exim 4.50)id 1HDvX0-0006Rg-Mh; Sun, 04 Feb 2007 20:32:42 -0800 Received: from dz5.dailyrazor.com ([67.15.209.33])by vogon.deatech.com with esmtp (Exim 4.50) id 1HDvWm-0006RY-Thfor coblist at deatech.com; Sun, 04 Feb 2007 20:32:34 -0800 Received: from c-66-31-31-139.hsd1.ma.comcast.net ([66.31.31.139]:3570helo=dragonfly) by dz5.dailyrazor.com with esmtpa (Exim 4.63)(envelope-from <dotpaul at paulleblanc.net>) id 1HDvWk-00068r-IMfor coblist at deatech.com; Sun, 04 Feb 2007 22:32:26 -0600 > >----- Original Message ----- From: <hms.mommy at juno.com> >To: <coblist at deatech.com> >Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 7:55 PM >Subject: [Cob] oiling cob > > >>Do any of you cobbers know how to work with oil and cob? I have a >>little >>model I made to experiement on, and have been brushing it with >>plain old >>vegetable oil (just because it's available) and it seems like no >>matter >>how much I put on, more will go on. Is there ever a point at which >>it >>will stop soaking in? Then I tried pouring melted wax on it, but >>the wax >>didn't soak in at all, and when it cooled, it came right off. What >>am I >>missing? > >I'll tell ya my fears about oils, Carrie: they go rancid. I know >that flax oil is extremely volatile and will go rancid after even a >few minutes of exposure to air or sunlight. Linseed is made from >flax, but it's been boiled (I believe). Unless I'm missing >something the oil would definitely be rancid. I think linseed is >probably rancid (strong odor), and possibly perfumed and deoderized >to trick the olfactory senses. Canola is deoderized. That's >because it's rancid in the bottle. > >Olive oil and Macadamia and coconut are very stable in comparison, >but even they will go rancid if you spread them on a flat surface >and expose them to air over time. > >I have to tell you that the use of turpentine with linseed seems >highly toxic to me, and if it's not I'd like to hear why. I know >one family that was worried they'd have to move out of such a cob >structure after doing their floors (pretty, but deadly) that way. I >barely could stand visiting that house for more than two minutes. >It was a toxic nighmare. > >I think flax/linseed is OK if you want to put up with having rancid >oils on your floor, and I don't really know what bad effects there >are from schlopping around in a house full of rancid oils. Maybe >none, but maybe some. The turpentine thing just seems like an a >suicide wish. I suppose it's supposed to evaporate but I can tell >you that it doesn't always evaporate and smells like holy hell. >Maybe not heating the floors helps too, but why taunt the gods of >common sense? I'd like to know. Somebody here probably understands >this a lot better than me. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Coblist mailing list >Coblist at deatech.com >http://www.deatech.com/mailman/listinfo/coblist _________________________________________________________________ [1]Invite your Hotmail contacts to join your friends list with Windows Live Spaces References 1. http://g.msn.com/8HMBENUS/2737??PS=47575
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